Keeping the green in tip-top shape
Dew Removal & Water Recycling
It is essential to remove the dew by 8a.m. before the wind gets up, as otherwise the dew will pass into the atmosphere. The moisture on the grass leaves is caused by transpiration and it comes out of guard cells on the extremes of the veins in the leaf.
These guard cells, stomata, control the water that is moved through the plan (transpiration) carrying the nutrients for promoting growth of leaves, stem and roots.
The stomata open when there is an abundance of moisture in the soil causing dew. In times of restriction of water, the stomata close up to prevent water loss. If the soil is dry, transpiration is severely restricted and moisture does not appear on the leaves. The moisture does not appear on the leaves. The moisture from the plant leaf needs to be recycled. The technical term for dew is guttation.
The plant requires a temperature of 5-7C or 42-45F to function efficiently. Feeling the dew with the back of the hand in the early morning would convey a temperature of about 36F. Once the dew has been removed, the temperature rises to about 45F usually with 15 minutes. This early warning system of the soil drying out must be taken seriously and is an excellent indication that the turf needs to be watered.
An inspection the following morning to see if the dew has formed evenly across the green shows if and where the turf needs to be watered.
Popular ways of removing the dew, the operation must be done corner to corner to avoid lines in the direction of play on the rinks.
To recycle the dew on a non-mowing day, a light roller will be necessary, with a light roller.
The benefit of a light roller will be to speed up the surface of the green prior to play on the days that the green is not mown. One speedy method for removing the dew, particularly in Winter, is to drag a hose or rope across the green by two people walking in the ditches either north to south or east to west.
Aeration (spiking)
Aeration of the green by spiking should have taken place during the Autumn months and carried on during the Spring, therefore not only allowing air into the soil, but also the rain to soften the green and benefit the grass plant.
It should be understood that the grass roots are still growing strongly, thus gathering food for its leaf production during the Summer months. The soil needs to be thought of as the ‘larder’ containing an abundance of food, not necessarily available immediately to the plant but with action from bacteria and other soil life, the store is increased.
In soil solution the plant is able to absorb into the root system these nutrients that are the building blocks of the grass.
Spiking as often as possible, though avoiding frost weather, should be carried out to assist the roots that will be searching for food to put in store in readiness to produce leaves throughout the Summer
Remember that slit or chisel tines are the preferred choice as these cut through the soil, including the roots already growing and have a pruning effect, thus allowing the roots to go down further, making optimum use of the oxygen at these lower levels.
The root zone has an abundance of food for recycling from dead roots and grass plants and it only requires the bacteria to pull it apart to reduce the particle size there they can influence the soil solution.
Many years ago, dead roots and leaves would have been reduced in size by worm activity that would have been easier for the bacteria to attack. However, with the modern practice of preventing worm activity, this is no longer possible.
It goes without saying that worm activity, if allowed, would not be conducive to keeping the surface level.
In the absence of worms, we need to find a substitute; therefore the following activities should be observed:
a) Aeration – making holes that roots can penetrate easily.
b) Create humus in the soil – mixing humus with sand.
c) Removal of debris – scarifying.
It is important during February, should the temperatures rise, to keep an eye out for fungi disease, particularly Fusarium. This disease mainly attacks Annual Meadow Grass (AMG) and while you may have thoroughly scarified the green at the end of the season, there is always some left in the green, so being an annual there will always be debris around for this fungi disease to attack, as it feeds on dead, dying and diseased material.
Scarifying
During damp weather light scarifying can take place to remove prostrating stems and leaves that stick out, preventing stalking up and seeding. Scarifying in the Spring must be seriously considered because should extensive thatch been removed in the Autumn, followed by over-seeding and top dressing of low areas, disturbance by scarifier before sufficient rolling is done will disturbing the top surface, bring up sand which in turn will finish up in mower cylinder and cause damage.
As the Spring gives rise to the Summer months, it is likely that the weather will become drier, with drought conditions at times. It is during these times that the grass will be helped by the preparation we made out of season.
Grass comes under stress in drought conditions and tries to conserve moisture. The stomata of the plant in the leaf cells closes up, preventing water loss during daylight hours. The guttation often appears as dew on the grass, but in fact this moisture has travelled through the grass plant and out of the stomata.
When grasses are irrigated, the moisture content begins to rise in the soil and the plant responds by functioning properly. This process appears to us as dew on the green and is a good indicator of how well we have spiked the green during the closed season, thus allowing the green to have conserved whatever water was available.
Of course, it must be remembered that the correct construction of the green in the first place will also play a part during these times of drought.
When the grass is under stress, make sure that as little traffic as possible passes across as this will increase the stress levels. All watering should be carried out in the coolness of the evening or overnight, as nutrients are often lost in conditions such as drought and it is important that a close eye is kept out for diseases, such as Red Thread and Corticum. A nitrogen feed should be used if these are noted on the green.
Rolling
During March, we need to firm up the green by light rolling as we need to put the turn back into position after spiking during the early part of the year. Rolling should be carried out in all directions, using maybe the mower without the box, gradually increasing the weight by using a bag of fertiliser or some other form of weight in the grass box.
The amount of rolling depends on how much aeration has been carried out. The action rolling is to put the turf back into position and firm it down following aeration and the effects of any frosts. If you need to ‘knock holes’ into the surface and roll.
It is necessary to roll the green to prevent excessive water loss, which would happen should the surface be loose from all that Autumn maintenance work.
As for rolling during the season, a light rolling can take place on the mornings when the grass is not scheduled for a cut. The dew must be removed; so rolling will firm up the green as well as drying the grass at the same time. This operation will speed up the green by about two seconds, which will assist the bowlers on the days when the green is not cut.
The next day, when the green is mown, the dew can be brushed off and at the same time rough up the green in readiness for the mower.
As we progress into April, the weight of the roller should be increased, but remember, it is the speed of travel that is important and this should be as slow as possible to obtain the maximum effect.
Feeding
Another operation required during March is the application of a Spring fertiliser. Ensure that the correct distributor is used and the correct amounts applied. Never transfer the fertiliser from the bag to distributor on the green, unless the green is well protected by a piece of hardwood or sheet of plastic.
As some fertilisers are a bit damp, it is always worth purchasing a one-eighth-of an inch sieve – a plastic one will suffice. All the material must pass through the sieve, so preventing blocking up the apertures and causing colour disfiguration created by scorching.
In a wet Spring, it is as well to put the fertiliser on at half the recommended dose rate, because if sufficient aeration has taken place in the Winter the plant will have gathered an abundance of food and will start producing leaves very quickly. The other half of the fertiliser can be added at the beginning of June when the green might well look a little peeky.
If it is a dry Spring, the proper rate of fertiliser will be necessary, but you must always ensure that the fertiliser is well watered in. You must remember that the fertiliser must be converted into a solution for the plants to benefit. If you have managed to carry out surface spiking prior to applying fertiliser, then this will benefit the turf considerably.
It must be remembered that fertilising, rolling, spiking and brushing must be carried out diagonally.
It is also important to remember that when mowing the green at this stage, the height of cut is very crucial and should not be below 13mm. The height can be gradually reduced in mid-April to 6mm finishing up at 5mm as the season begins.
Do not cut too short, as it is the leaves of the grass that manufacture food from the atmosphere.
When I ask people what height of cut they are adopting, I really want to know what height of cut above the soil, not the thatch!
Watering
Your eyes are the best indicator of whether your green requires watering. You will notice the loss of dew in the mornings and if this is the case then watering must take place as soon as practical, then check the following morning to see if the problem has been rectified.
Water is vital to turf. Unless sufficient water is available, the plant cannot absorb nutrients (food). The remaining water is carried through plant and leaves as guttation, commonly called dew. This indicates that the plant has sufficient moisture. Should the plant not be functioning properly by closing down guard cells, it can reduce water loss.
Observing the dew in the morning will give an indication of the areas to water. Do not waste time watering a dewy surface that has sufficient water. This biggest problem with pop-up sprinklers is that water is not normally required all over, so usually the use of a hand help hose with a rose will be enough. Check the following morning to see if you have put down enough. If not, hand water again until the dew does show in the morning.
The secret of watering is to apply it in fine droplet form and this will prevent disturbing the fine soil. If it is a seedbed, bombing the surface with heavy droplets of water will pan the surface.
Choose sprinklers to apply water as evenly as possible so as to allow water to be absorbed without puddling. If necessary, surface spike diagonally with a solid tine or use the slitter diagonally which will not affect the run of the bowls. The turf will benefit from this operation before applying fertiliser. Should fertiliser be split, sweep us as much as possible and dilute the remaining material to prevent scorching. Deep hand fork the area to assist the excessive solution through the turf.
Prevention is better that cure when using fertilisers:-
1. When applying granules, or dry fertilisers, pass the materials through a 304mm sieve, preventing blocking the distributor. This operation must be done off the turf to avoid problems. Ideally fertiliser should always be well watered in because it is not required on the surface.
2. Liquid feed can be applied to a dewy surface. This extra water will help to reach the roots.
3. Foliar feed must be applied according to the manufacturer’s instructions to obtain the correct dilution because the target is on the surface and not beneath it. Should water be noticed on the turf surface, solid spiking should be done. Cold water on the surface will not benefit turf or soil organisms.
Pop-up Sprinklers – These have great benefit subject to you having maintenance knowledge.
1. They can be used at night when normal weather conditions do not encourage evaporation.
2. They percolate easily with dew (guttation going on).
3. They wash fertilisers in, making play easier the following day. This system prevents scorching.
Warning –
1. They can cause uneven water by overlapping.
2. They do not always reach the target if windy. Buildings, hedges, trees etc allow the wind to change direction at ground level.
3. The water supply may be unreliable, causing restriction in flow.
4. Nozzle failure due to blockages are not always noticed, causing uneven watering.
5. The system needs regular maintenance.
Giant Water Square – Fixed jet (nozzles) are replaceable quite easily.
1. It will water the full length of the green. Approximately seven moves will cover the green adequately.
2. To be fully operational it requires two wooden ball carriages per section. One carriage is insufficient, as two are needed to assist with moving and supporting pipe sections.
3. 25mm hose with good water pressure can adequately cover the full length of green x6m wide each move.
4. It is easy to observe that the nozzles are working properly.
Travelling Sprinklers – Variable nozzles fitted with gentle ‘rain like’ application can cover a wide area of green. Use a 25mm hose. Jetting arms, pulling it along automatically, control the speed and they will shut down at the end of the run. Areas can be seen covered efficiently during daylight hours.
Mowing
The skill of mowing cannot be over emphasised and so during the Winter months check to ensure that your mower is in perfect working order. Height of cut throughout the Winter is 13mm, reducing down to 6mm by about mid-April and if growing conditions are good, down to 5mm for match days. If conditions are cold, leave the height of cut at 6mm, as grass can suffer windburn if cut too short in cold winds.
During drought conditions raise the height of cut to around 7mm because the grass will be brittle and it might be a good idea to cut only twice a week as opposed to three times.
When mowing, a border or headland of three or four cuts around the green will allow a good turning area, as sharp turns in a small area can bruise the grass. Use of the clutch is a skill that has to be learned, otherwise more damage in done by the mower than by the bowlers. Any damage in the corners is down to the greenkeeper and cannot be blamed on the bowlers.
On days when more time is available for mowing, then perhaps a border or headland of six or seven cuts can be done so allowing for even wider space for the turns on the end of your green.
On special match days, a double cut will speed up the green considerably. This means cutting from one corner diagonally across the green and coming back along the same cut. It will not cut twice as much off the green, but it will remove quite a bit of knapp created by the first run. It will probably be three days before mowing is required again.
If the club doesn’t possess a handbook for the mower, then contact the manufacturer for a copy to ensure that all work is carried out as the manufacturer recommends.
Under no circumstances fill the mower up with petrol on the green as any spillage can prove disastrous and the marks will be evident for months.
It is essential to remove the dew by 8a.m. before the wind gets up, as otherwise the dew will pass into the atmosphere. The moisture on the grass leaves is caused by transpiration and it comes out of guard cells on the extremes of the veins in the leaf.
These guard cells, stomata, control the water that is moved through the plan (transpiration) carrying the nutrients for promoting growth of leaves, stem and roots.
The stomata open when there is an abundance of moisture in the soil causing dew. In times of restriction of water, the stomata close up to prevent water loss. If the soil is dry, transpiration is severely restricted and moisture does not appear on the leaves. The moisture does not appear on the leaves. The moisture from the plant leaf needs to be recycled. The technical term for dew is guttation.
The plant requires a temperature of 5-7C or 42-45F to function efficiently. Feeling the dew with the back of the hand in the early morning would convey a temperature of about 36F. Once the dew has been removed, the temperature rises to about 45F usually with 15 minutes. This early warning system of the soil drying out must be taken seriously and is an excellent indication that the turf needs to be watered.
An inspection the following morning to see if the dew has formed evenly across the green shows if and where the turf needs to be watered.
Popular ways of removing the dew, the operation must be done corner to corner to avoid lines in the direction of play on the rinks.
To recycle the dew on a non-mowing day, a light roller will be necessary, with a light roller.
The benefit of a light roller will be to speed up the surface of the green prior to play on the days that the green is not mown. One speedy method for removing the dew, particularly in Winter, is to drag a hose or rope across the green by two people walking in the ditches either north to south or east to west.
Aeration (spiking)
Aeration of the green by spiking should have taken place during the Autumn months and carried on during the Spring, therefore not only allowing air into the soil, but also the rain to soften the green and benefit the grass plant.
It should be understood that the grass roots are still growing strongly, thus gathering food for its leaf production during the Summer months. The soil needs to be thought of as the ‘larder’ containing an abundance of food, not necessarily available immediately to the plant but with action from bacteria and other soil life, the store is increased.
In soil solution the plant is able to absorb into the root system these nutrients that are the building blocks of the grass.
Spiking as often as possible, though avoiding frost weather, should be carried out to assist the roots that will be searching for food to put in store in readiness to produce leaves throughout the Summer
Remember that slit or chisel tines are the preferred choice as these cut through the soil, including the roots already growing and have a pruning effect, thus allowing the roots to go down further, making optimum use of the oxygen at these lower levels.
The root zone has an abundance of food for recycling from dead roots and grass plants and it only requires the bacteria to pull it apart to reduce the particle size there they can influence the soil solution.
Many years ago, dead roots and leaves would have been reduced in size by worm activity that would have been easier for the bacteria to attack. However, with the modern practice of preventing worm activity, this is no longer possible.
It goes without saying that worm activity, if allowed, would not be conducive to keeping the surface level.
In the absence of worms, we need to find a substitute; therefore the following activities should be observed:
a) Aeration – making holes that roots can penetrate easily.
b) Create humus in the soil – mixing humus with sand.
c) Removal of debris – scarifying.
It is important during February, should the temperatures rise, to keep an eye out for fungi disease, particularly Fusarium. This disease mainly attacks Annual Meadow Grass (AMG) and while you may have thoroughly scarified the green at the end of the season, there is always some left in the green, so being an annual there will always be debris around for this fungi disease to attack, as it feeds on dead, dying and diseased material.
Scarifying
During damp weather light scarifying can take place to remove prostrating stems and leaves that stick out, preventing stalking up and seeding. Scarifying in the Spring must be seriously considered because should extensive thatch been removed in the Autumn, followed by over-seeding and top dressing of low areas, disturbance by scarifier before sufficient rolling is done will disturbing the top surface, bring up sand which in turn will finish up in mower cylinder and cause damage.
As the Spring gives rise to the Summer months, it is likely that the weather will become drier, with drought conditions at times. It is during these times that the grass will be helped by the preparation we made out of season.
Grass comes under stress in drought conditions and tries to conserve moisture. The stomata of the plant in the leaf cells closes up, preventing water loss during daylight hours. The guttation often appears as dew on the grass, but in fact this moisture has travelled through the grass plant and out of the stomata.
When grasses are irrigated, the moisture content begins to rise in the soil and the plant responds by functioning properly. This process appears to us as dew on the green and is a good indicator of how well we have spiked the green during the closed season, thus allowing the green to have conserved whatever water was available.
Of course, it must be remembered that the correct construction of the green in the first place will also play a part during these times of drought.
When the grass is under stress, make sure that as little traffic as possible passes across as this will increase the stress levels. All watering should be carried out in the coolness of the evening or overnight, as nutrients are often lost in conditions such as drought and it is important that a close eye is kept out for diseases, such as Red Thread and Corticum. A nitrogen feed should be used if these are noted on the green.
Rolling
During March, we need to firm up the green by light rolling as we need to put the turn back into position after spiking during the early part of the year. Rolling should be carried out in all directions, using maybe the mower without the box, gradually increasing the weight by using a bag of fertiliser or some other form of weight in the grass box.
The amount of rolling depends on how much aeration has been carried out. The action rolling is to put the turf back into position and firm it down following aeration and the effects of any frosts. If you need to ‘knock holes’ into the surface and roll.
It is necessary to roll the green to prevent excessive water loss, which would happen should the surface be loose from all that Autumn maintenance work.
As for rolling during the season, a light rolling can take place on the mornings when the grass is not scheduled for a cut. The dew must be removed; so rolling will firm up the green as well as drying the grass at the same time. This operation will speed up the green by about two seconds, which will assist the bowlers on the days when the green is not cut.
The next day, when the green is mown, the dew can be brushed off and at the same time rough up the green in readiness for the mower.
As we progress into April, the weight of the roller should be increased, but remember, it is the speed of travel that is important and this should be as slow as possible to obtain the maximum effect.
Feeding
Another operation required during March is the application of a Spring fertiliser. Ensure that the correct distributor is used and the correct amounts applied. Never transfer the fertiliser from the bag to distributor on the green, unless the green is well protected by a piece of hardwood or sheet of plastic.
As some fertilisers are a bit damp, it is always worth purchasing a one-eighth-of an inch sieve – a plastic one will suffice. All the material must pass through the sieve, so preventing blocking up the apertures and causing colour disfiguration created by scorching.
In a wet Spring, it is as well to put the fertiliser on at half the recommended dose rate, because if sufficient aeration has taken place in the Winter the plant will have gathered an abundance of food and will start producing leaves very quickly. The other half of the fertiliser can be added at the beginning of June when the green might well look a little peeky.
If it is a dry Spring, the proper rate of fertiliser will be necessary, but you must always ensure that the fertiliser is well watered in. You must remember that the fertiliser must be converted into a solution for the plants to benefit. If you have managed to carry out surface spiking prior to applying fertiliser, then this will benefit the turf considerably.
It must be remembered that fertilising, rolling, spiking and brushing must be carried out diagonally.
It is also important to remember that when mowing the green at this stage, the height of cut is very crucial and should not be below 13mm. The height can be gradually reduced in mid-April to 6mm finishing up at 5mm as the season begins.
Do not cut too short, as it is the leaves of the grass that manufacture food from the atmosphere.
When I ask people what height of cut they are adopting, I really want to know what height of cut above the soil, not the thatch!
Watering
Your eyes are the best indicator of whether your green requires watering. You will notice the loss of dew in the mornings and if this is the case then watering must take place as soon as practical, then check the following morning to see if the problem has been rectified.
Water is vital to turf. Unless sufficient water is available, the plant cannot absorb nutrients (food). The remaining water is carried through plant and leaves as guttation, commonly called dew. This indicates that the plant has sufficient moisture. Should the plant not be functioning properly by closing down guard cells, it can reduce water loss.
Observing the dew in the morning will give an indication of the areas to water. Do not waste time watering a dewy surface that has sufficient water. This biggest problem with pop-up sprinklers is that water is not normally required all over, so usually the use of a hand help hose with a rose will be enough. Check the following morning to see if you have put down enough. If not, hand water again until the dew does show in the morning.
The secret of watering is to apply it in fine droplet form and this will prevent disturbing the fine soil. If it is a seedbed, bombing the surface with heavy droplets of water will pan the surface.
Choose sprinklers to apply water as evenly as possible so as to allow water to be absorbed without puddling. If necessary, surface spike diagonally with a solid tine or use the slitter diagonally which will not affect the run of the bowls. The turf will benefit from this operation before applying fertiliser. Should fertiliser be split, sweep us as much as possible and dilute the remaining material to prevent scorching. Deep hand fork the area to assist the excessive solution through the turf.
Prevention is better that cure when using fertilisers:-
1. When applying granules, or dry fertilisers, pass the materials through a 304mm sieve, preventing blocking the distributor. This operation must be done off the turf to avoid problems. Ideally fertiliser should always be well watered in because it is not required on the surface.
2. Liquid feed can be applied to a dewy surface. This extra water will help to reach the roots.
3. Foliar feed must be applied according to the manufacturer’s instructions to obtain the correct dilution because the target is on the surface and not beneath it. Should water be noticed on the turf surface, solid spiking should be done. Cold water on the surface will not benefit turf or soil organisms.
Pop-up Sprinklers – These have great benefit subject to you having maintenance knowledge.
1. They can be used at night when normal weather conditions do not encourage evaporation.
2. They percolate easily with dew (guttation going on).
3. They wash fertilisers in, making play easier the following day. This system prevents scorching.
Warning –
1. They can cause uneven water by overlapping.
2. They do not always reach the target if windy. Buildings, hedges, trees etc allow the wind to change direction at ground level.
3. The water supply may be unreliable, causing restriction in flow.
4. Nozzle failure due to blockages are not always noticed, causing uneven watering.
5. The system needs regular maintenance.
Giant Water Square – Fixed jet (nozzles) are replaceable quite easily.
1. It will water the full length of the green. Approximately seven moves will cover the green adequately.
2. To be fully operational it requires two wooden ball carriages per section. One carriage is insufficient, as two are needed to assist with moving and supporting pipe sections.
3. 25mm hose with good water pressure can adequately cover the full length of green x6m wide each move.
4. It is easy to observe that the nozzles are working properly.
Travelling Sprinklers – Variable nozzles fitted with gentle ‘rain like’ application can cover a wide area of green. Use a 25mm hose. Jetting arms, pulling it along automatically, control the speed and they will shut down at the end of the run. Areas can be seen covered efficiently during daylight hours.
Mowing
The skill of mowing cannot be over emphasised and so during the Winter months check to ensure that your mower is in perfect working order. Height of cut throughout the Winter is 13mm, reducing down to 6mm by about mid-April and if growing conditions are good, down to 5mm for match days. If conditions are cold, leave the height of cut at 6mm, as grass can suffer windburn if cut too short in cold winds.
During drought conditions raise the height of cut to around 7mm because the grass will be brittle and it might be a good idea to cut only twice a week as opposed to three times.
When mowing, a border or headland of three or four cuts around the green will allow a good turning area, as sharp turns in a small area can bruise the grass. Use of the clutch is a skill that has to be learned, otherwise more damage in done by the mower than by the bowlers. Any damage in the corners is down to the greenkeeper and cannot be blamed on the bowlers.
On days when more time is available for mowing, then perhaps a border or headland of six or seven cuts can be done so allowing for even wider space for the turns on the end of your green.
On special match days, a double cut will speed up the green considerably. This means cutting from one corner diagonally across the green and coming back along the same cut. It will not cut twice as much off the green, but it will remove quite a bit of knapp created by the first run. It will probably be three days before mowing is required again.
If the club doesn’t possess a handbook for the mower, then contact the manufacturer for a copy to ensure that all work is carried out as the manufacturer recommends.
Under no circumstances fill the mower up with petrol on the green as any spillage can prove disastrous and the marks will be evident for months.
Acknowledgements to Dave Bracey for this article